Because silicone spray is water resistant, it also can protect items from moisture. You can use it on home, automotive, and marine metals as a rust retardant. I know that painted hinges, such as on my van, tend to rust because the paint chips off. The silicone spray not only protects the outside paint, but can creep into the hinge to keep it. Your main goals should be lubrication,rust prevention,waterproofing. Silicone in food safe and lithium grease is toxic. Silicone grease is mostly used in water lines or water filter systems. Lithium grease is a great choice for garage parts. It's long-lasting, resistant to temperature fluctuations, and handles friction well. Silicone: Another great option, silicone sprays work well on mechanical parts. Like lithium grease, silicone withstands temperature and lasts a long time. Lithium grease (esp. Chain grease/wax) has a product to clean the chain. I guess that product (thinner oils that evaporate), might be bad for the seals, but I don't think or believe the actual lythium grease/wax can do any harm to the seals. It's a lot thicker than silicone grease for sure. Grease Lubricants; This is the typical type of lubricant, which is liquid in form. Depending on the brand, this can either solidify or not. There are also two types of grease, and these are: Silicone-based lube – this can be used for slide-outs with rubber components.
The variety of lubricants in your local bike shop can be a little confusing, vital for maintaining your bicycle and keeping things moving smoothly, they prolong the life of parts and improve your ride if applied correctly. If you're not sure which parts of the bike need lubrication then this infographic will guide you through.
There's essentially three different types of bike lube:
- Chain Lubricants (Dry/Wet)
- Grease
- All Purpose Lubricants
Chain Lubricants (Dry/Wet)
Dry and wet are pretty much universal terms and most chain lubricant manufacturers will offer these two variants as a minimum. As a very simple rule of thumb, use dry lubes in dry conditions and wet lubes in wet conditions.
Dry Lubricants
These go onto the chain wet, but then dry to a waxy finish. Most take a few hours to dry, so plan for this before you head out to ride. The positive side of a dry lube is it won't collect much dirt which is perfect for cycling in dry conditions. On the downside, dry lubes wash off very easily and will need re-applying after a wet ride.
Wet lubricants
Wet lubes are thicker and stick to the chain, remaining wet to the touch until rubbed away. They are perfect for wet conditions, as they offer a highly increased resistance to rain and are harder to wash away. The downside is they collect dirt so need cleaning up a lot more regularly to stop damage to components.
Wet lubes should only really be used when the conditions call for it. They are perfect for your winter bike in harsh conditions, but clean up the chain and swap back to dry lubes in the summer to prevent grime building up within the cassette.
Can I Use Other Types of Lubrication On My Chain?
In short, no. Chain lubes are made specifically for the task so there's little need to stray elsewhere. The classic beginner mistake is to use a very lightweight household oil such as WD40, which is designed for low use parts. Whilst this will grease the chain in the short term, it is not meant for outside use and will very quickly wash away. The other extreme is motor oil. This is generally too thick for use on a bike chain, and will not penetrate the smaller parts of a bike. It is also very sticky, so will pick up muck from the road very easily.
How to Use
Expansion - crusader kings ii: sons of abraham cracks. Clean your chain
Before applying lubricant, get the chain as clean as possible. There is no point lubricating over dirt as this will continue to grind around all of your key components.
If your chain is in a particularly dire state you could use a scrubbing tool, but usually a rag and degreaser will do fine. Remember to also clean in the cassette and around the jockey wheels.
Application
White Lithium Grease Vs Silicone Grease For Garage Door
The best way to apply lube is with your bike in a stand or the back wheel off the ground. Apply one drop of lube into every chain link and work the pedals around gradually until you have completed every section. Then run the bike through as many of the gears as possible to force the lube into the inside parts of the links where it is most needed.
Wipe down
As a new rider, leaving excess lube on the chain was the first thing I got told off for when I took my bike in for its initial service. The key place for the lubricant to be working on is the internal parts of the chain, so you shouldn't expect to see it coated on the outside.
When you have applied the lube and run it through the gears a few times, grab an old piece of rag and gently wipe the chain down to remove any excess. This should stop too much grit being able to stick to the outside. If you have used a dry lube leave it for a few hours so it has dried out completely before taking it for a ride.
How often should I lubricate the chain?
How long is a piece of string? There are so many variables here so it's almost impossible to say, though I work with a general rule of about once a month, maybe slightly more in bad conditions.
With experience you can feel when the chain doesn't move so smoothly and then react accordingly. Don't feel like you have to relubricate every time you give your bike a wash, as in the long run all this will do is cause more grime to stick to the chain.
Products
I personally have always used the Muc Off range of chain lubes, simply because it was the first range I bought and I've never seen a reason to change over as I'm happy with the results. I keep a bottle of both wet and dry in my toolkit so I'm ready for any weather.
Grease
Grease is a heavier, waterproof lubrication which is generally used in places on the bike you don't take apart or see too often. It has two key, but quite different functions:
- To keep key components moving and free from water entering
- To help places of static metal to metal connection from seizing up
In the first instance grease is heavily used to keep moving parts of the bike running freely. You will find it in the bearings of your wheels, bottom bracket and headset and also in the moving parts of your brakes and gear levers. You will not find grease in moving parts that are open to the air as, due to its thick and sticky texture, it would attract dirt too easily.
In the second instance grease is used to prevent parts from seizing up or ‘cold welding'. Again, these parts will all be shielded from the elements.
The key static areas on which to use grease are saddle posts and bolt threads. These components sit against metal for long periods of time under pressure, and can seize up making them very difficult to remove. I would recommend greasing any bolt before tightening on a bike, and once every few months removing your saddle post, cleaning it down and regreasing to prevent it seizing to the frame.
Products
I use Lithium Grease by Weldtite, as I was introduced to it by a local mechanic *insert joke here* and have never tried anything else. It is perfect for both examples described above and lasts ages. The grease is white which helps you see where it has been applied.
All Purpose Lubricants
All purpose lubricants are your day-to-day workhorses for keeping the bike moving. It is best to invest in something that has a waterproof element such as teflon and is suited to outdoor use.
For an all purpose lubricant, products in spray cans make application easier especially when blasting it into those hard to reach areas like down cable housing. All purpose lubricants have a whole host of uses like freeing up a sticking brake cantilever, stop a squeaking pedal, get your brake cables shifting smoother and a lot more besides.
Before applying lubricant, get the chain as clean as possible. There is no point lubricating over dirt as this will continue to grind around all of your key components.
If your chain is in a particularly dire state you could use a scrubbing tool, but usually a rag and degreaser will do fine. Remember to also clean in the cassette and around the jockey wheels.
Application
White Lithium Grease Vs Silicone Grease For Garage Door
The best way to apply lube is with your bike in a stand or the back wheel off the ground. Apply one drop of lube into every chain link and work the pedals around gradually until you have completed every section. Then run the bike through as many of the gears as possible to force the lube into the inside parts of the links where it is most needed.
Wipe down
As a new rider, leaving excess lube on the chain was the first thing I got told off for when I took my bike in for its initial service. The key place for the lubricant to be working on is the internal parts of the chain, so you shouldn't expect to see it coated on the outside.
When you have applied the lube and run it through the gears a few times, grab an old piece of rag and gently wipe the chain down to remove any excess. This should stop too much grit being able to stick to the outside. If you have used a dry lube leave it for a few hours so it has dried out completely before taking it for a ride.
How often should I lubricate the chain?
How long is a piece of string? There are so many variables here so it's almost impossible to say, though I work with a general rule of about once a month, maybe slightly more in bad conditions.
With experience you can feel when the chain doesn't move so smoothly and then react accordingly. Don't feel like you have to relubricate every time you give your bike a wash, as in the long run all this will do is cause more grime to stick to the chain.
Products
I personally have always used the Muc Off range of chain lubes, simply because it was the first range I bought and I've never seen a reason to change over as I'm happy with the results. I keep a bottle of both wet and dry in my toolkit so I'm ready for any weather.
Grease
Grease is a heavier, waterproof lubrication which is generally used in places on the bike you don't take apart or see too often. It has two key, but quite different functions:
- To keep key components moving and free from water entering
- To help places of static metal to metal connection from seizing up
In the first instance grease is heavily used to keep moving parts of the bike running freely. You will find it in the bearings of your wheels, bottom bracket and headset and also in the moving parts of your brakes and gear levers. You will not find grease in moving parts that are open to the air as, due to its thick and sticky texture, it would attract dirt too easily.
In the second instance grease is used to prevent parts from seizing up or ‘cold welding'. Again, these parts will all be shielded from the elements.
The key static areas on which to use grease are saddle posts and bolt threads. These components sit against metal for long periods of time under pressure, and can seize up making them very difficult to remove. I would recommend greasing any bolt before tightening on a bike, and once every few months removing your saddle post, cleaning it down and regreasing to prevent it seizing to the frame.
Products
I use Lithium Grease by Weldtite, as I was introduced to it by a local mechanic *insert joke here* and have never tried anything else. It is perfect for both examples described above and lasts ages. The grease is white which helps you see where it has been applied.
All Purpose Lubricants
All purpose lubricants are your day-to-day workhorses for keeping the bike moving. It is best to invest in something that has a waterproof element such as teflon and is suited to outdoor use.
For an all purpose lubricant, products in spray cans make application easier especially when blasting it into those hard to reach areas like down cable housing. All purpose lubricants have a whole host of uses like freeing up a sticking brake cantilever, stop a squeaking pedal, get your brake cables shifting smoother and a lot more besides.
As with all types of lubricant, make sure you clear off any excess as, being quite thin, this can easily run down onto brake pads or other areas of the bike you don't need it.
Products
My favourite is again by Weldtite, the TF2 Aerosol Spray. This spray contains Teflon which helps to make it more waterproof, and has one of those handy red tubes for spraying it into hard to reach places.
Over time, car doors can start to creak and squeak. It's a common problem, but it's incredibly annoying. Luckily, the best lubricants for car door hinges can get your hinges working smoothly again, so that you can swing them open and shut without unwanted noise. And lubrication has other benefits beyond simple noise reduction: It can help to prevent additional issues, such as the buildup of rust.
What are the different types of lubricants for car door hinges?
Silicone Vs Lithium Lubricant
White lithium greaseis a thick and heavy grease that repels water. It holds up really well in harsh weather conditions, and since it's designed specifically for metal, it's a good choice for car door hinges.
On the other hand, classic WD-40is lighter in terms of lubrication (so if you're looking for a heavy-duty option, it may not be the best pick), but like white lithium it can help to unstick areas and remove rust. If you choose to use WD-40 on your door hinges, make sure that you open and close the door a few times to work it into the hinge mechanism.
Silicone Versus Lithium Grease
There are other types of lubricants available, including silicone spray and a graphite lubricant, but these are not the best options for car door hinges. Silicone spray is ideal for areas that have non-metal parts (like nylon or plastic) and a graphite lubricant is mostly used for locks.
Wd40 Lithium
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